Step Pyramid of Saqqara and the Memphis Museum
From Exotic Egypt in Saqqara, Egypt on Aug 22 '07
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Although the pyramids at Giza received recognition as one of the wonders of the ancient world, it is worth noting that it took ancient Egyptians about 400 years to advance from the mud brick ‘mastaba’ (which are low box-like platform/mounds on the ground) to the smooth sided pyramid. Around 2665 BC, a more impressive memorial was made by putting six stone mastabas on top of` each other. An example of this is King Djoser’s pyramid also known as the Step Pyramid, in Saqqara.
The first smooth sided pyramid was achieved by simply filling in the steps of the step pyramid. It was only later (around 2500 BC) that we started to see purpose built pyramids such as the one on Giza.
This pyramid marks an unprecedented leap forward in the history of world architecture. Instead of using the usual mud brick mastabas, Imhotep chose to use stone and build not just one mastaba but six, one on top of the other – with each additional layer smaller than the one below it.
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The capital of the old kingdom was Memphis and Saqqara was established as the royal necropolis. Although Saqqara is one of the richest archaeological sites in Egypt, all we were planning to see was King Djoser’s pyramid. The sun was high up and it was unbearably hot. I had forgotten my baseball cap back at the hotel and so had ended up purchasing an arab style headdress which I wore at Giza and kept on me for the rest of the afternoon in Saqqara.
There weren’t as many visitors at Saqqara and also absent was the accompanying circus of camel rides, souvenir hawkers, wannabe guides and little children thrusting items in your hand only to ask you for “baksheeh” (gift/money) later. If it wasn’t so bloody hot, I would have definitely liked to spend more time around the step pyramid. This pyramid marks an unprecedented leap forward in the history of world architecture. Instead of using the usual low, flat, mud brick mastabas, King Djoser’s high priest Imhotep chose to use stone and build not just one mastaba but six, one on top of the other – with each additional layer smaller than the one below it.
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Did I mention already how unbearably hot it was by this time? So after taking a few pictures, we scurried towards the comfort of our air conditioned van and continued on towards Memphis – the first capital of ancient Egypt.
Memphis is thought to have been founded around 3100 BC by King Menes, the ruler responsible for uniting Upper and Lower Egypt. Situated at the head of the Nile Delta, this city was once a powerful political, administrative and commercial centre. Sadly, there is little remaining evidence of this once glorious city. The city has almost completely vanished – its temples and palaces were torn down and pillaged by foreign invaders from the Romans onwards. What little has been discovered at Memphis is housed in a small open-air Memphis museum.
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The showpiece is the colossal statue of Ramses II, which lies, truncated at the knees, in a viewing pavilion. In the garden there are more statues of Ramses II and an 18th Dynasty Sphinx (weighing 80 tons, I was told).
We didn’t spend too much time at the museum for two reasons: one, it was mostly outdoor and the heat and hustle was getting a bit much for us; and, two, we were absolutely starving and wanted to get somewhere cool and eat! We did just that. After a buffet lunch at one of the local restaurants, we spent some time at govt. recognized (i.e. legit) stores where I purchased silver jewelry and then at a nice department store where I purchased something even more extravagant than silver – amazing quality bed linen and sheets of Egyptian cotton!!!! :)
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