Wonders of Cairo

Memphis Alabaster Sphinx
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We had a lovely buffet breakfast at the Marriot Cairo and then met up with our other 20 travelling companions. Here we met our travel guide and Egyptologist Assem who advised us of our itinerary for the next two days. Our tour is made up mostly of Aussies and Americans and a couple from Canada. First up on the bus, Assem advises us that Friday is a day of rest for muslims, so the traffic will be good. During the 30min drive, I note it is very, very hazy from desert dust and the buildingscape looks almost like a war zone. Most buildings on the outside of the city are unfinished and many unpopulated. We are advised that most of these buildings were built when there was no control on the building codes and after an earthquake were very unsafe. People do still live in them though, but there are no services run to them, like roads, garbage collection, water to waste services. A lot of buildings also look half finished and it is explained to us that building taxes have to be paid once the building is finished – so most buildings are unfinished!

Rameses II Statue
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We arrive at Memphis, capital of the old kingdom. Here there is a huge statue of Rameses II dominating the complex, and the second biggest sphinx in Egypt – carved from alabaster stone. There is also a second statue of Rameses II that had fallen over with just half of the statue above the water table, the lower half being partially eroded away. We climbed the stairs inside the building containing this statue so we could see the beautiful carving of the front and face. Heading back to the bus and we experienced our first nagging by the street vendors trying to sell us 20 postcards for $1 (American dollar) – about 5 egyptian pounds. 20 one dullar, 20 one dullar was the cry that went out. Some didn’t like no for an answer, but we were told to ignore them and this eventually worked.

Walk like an Egyptian

Sakkara Step Pyramid
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We then moved on to Sakkara to view the giant step Pyramid of Zoser I – the oldest known structure in the world. This was the first attempt at making a pyramid, and as the king lived longer another step was added to the top. The pyramid was enclosed within a compound that was secured by a high fence that stretched out many kilometres. This fence now stands in ruins, but part of the compound exists which we were able to walk around.

After this it was a brief stop at a rug making centre, where we were shown how young children are trained in the art of hand weaving silk and cotton rugs. We are also shown how they harvest silk and dye the material ready for weaving. Next – you guessed it, our opportunity to purchase rugs direct from the showroom. I nearly faltered and bought a lovely small silk one- but decided the weight of it was too much to carry for the remainder of our trip. We then headed off towards the Giza plateau and stopped at a nearby restaurant for lunch. For $55 Egyptian Pounds (au$11) we have a feast of salads, breads with hummas and falafel. The second course was kebab meat – turkey, chicken and we think beef, with some other accompaniments. We decide to have some coke and it is delivered in an original glass bottle and tastes great. It was then on to the highlight of the day, the Pyramids of Giza. Here we see the three larger pyramids and get a chance to walk about the base of two of them. We climb just one level up that is allowed on one of them to get some photos.

Young kids carpet weavinng
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At the second pyramid I decide to be brave and take the US$!0 camel ride.. The mounting was not very lady-like, and I was scared I was going to fall when the camel stood up – back feet first, thrusting me forward and nearly down the camel’s neck!! The camels were hitched in a small caravan and we took a small walk around the area. My camel decided to get friendly with the lady in front and rubbed his nose up and down her leg. When he patted him on the head, she was a friend for life, and he continued to nudge her as we walked along. The man leading the camel took each riders photo in turn with the pyramids in the background. Once back at the main camel camp, the dismount – front legs first and once again me screaming and nearly doing myself an injury – no matter how far backwards I lean. Once off the camel, we are chastised by the camel host for an additional tip – and he will not let us leave until we give him more money.

Joe walking like an egyptian at Giza
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We then moved further down the plateau to where the Sphinx is located and walk through the nearby temple to get as close as we can to see this big monolith. We are told that back when the Ottoman Turks ruled Egypt that they used the nose of the Sphinx for target practise, which is why it is so damaged today. There are pestering venders all over these sites trying to sell you everything from postcards, carved statues, towel head-coverings, supposed painted papaya sheets and other items. There is a standard call “one dullar, one dullar” that you hear everywhere you go. I see a nice beach towel with two regal cats on it for 90 EP and decide to buy it. I had left my purse on the bus and Joe did not have enough money on him after the camel tipping incident to pay for it. I told the vendor I needed to go find my bus to get money to pay for it, and he thinks he is getting the brush-off. The price immediately drops to 80 EP, then further along to 70 EP. “You like? you like?” he keeps saying, and I keep repeating – the money is on the bus. He says he will follow – 60 EP and asks again? Yes, I say. He tries to get me to carry it, but I refuse. Then finally the price drops to 50 EP – what a bargain – for an Egyptian cotton beach towel. Once at the bus, I get the money and take the towel. Amazing how a towel can nearly halve in price over a short walking distance!!

Me on my trusty steed (camel) in front of the Pyramids
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The drive back to the hotel was traffic mayhem once again. There are 6 million cars on the road in Cairo – the city host a population the same size as Australia – about 22million. There are lanes on the road and traffic lights but these are ignored. Many years ago the government here decide to allow the traffic to flow as it needs, so now on a road with three marked lanes there are up to 6 lanes of traffic. There is also a special horn language that is used by the locals, beep once for move left, beep twice for move twice, and five beeps for I’m coming through no matter what, I’m a bus and bigger than you get out of my way. The trip home is a constant beep-beep of the horn of the bus, but the driver gets the job done. Surprisingly there are only about 15 minor bingles a day on the road here - pretty good for the number of cars.

The Giza plateau Pyramids
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After a brief rest at the hotel, we are back on the bus to return to the Giza Plateau just after sunset for the Cairo sound and light show. We have tickets to sit in the seated area in front of the Sphinx. After a short wait the show starts and I think the loud voice over the speakers is a commanding voice from the heavens. It narrates a story, which is highlighted by projected images on a nearby mountain, and the lighting up of the pyramids with colourful lights and the projection of lasers. At one point the face is put back on the sphinx with lasers that are impressive. The show lasts for about 50 mins, and by the end it is getting quite cool.

The mighty Sphinx
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Once back at the hotel Joe and I opt for a cheese pizza which was quite nice, then head back to the room, ready to call it a night. Tomorrow we have another early start because we are flying to Luxor at 8.30am and need to be at the airport by 7.30 at least.