Luxor Temple and Valley of the Kings

Front of Luxor Temple
see all photos »

This morning we are on the bus by 6.30am – the sun has not quite risen for our visit to Luxor Temple. The sacrifice of getting up early is well worth it as we see the sunrise over this temple and when we arrive we almost have the temple to ourselves. Once again as we wander around this huge structure, Assem points out carvings of note and tells us stories of the Egyptian gods and Kings. It is also amazing to see the colours that have weathered 3000 years and although faded, gives us an idea of how colourful the temple would have looked with every carving painted bright colours of white, green, red, blue, yellow and black.

One of the hundreds of carved Columns
see all photos »

It is still unknown how they managed to impregnate these colours into the granite walls. Assem also explains to us how they think they built these huge structures – by laying the bottom level of stone, then filling in the spaces with sand and then setting the next level of stone, filling in more sand etc, etc, until they got to the roof. Then, they carved the shape of the pillars, the hieroglyphics and painted them as they removed the sand level by level back down to the base. An amazing feat of engineering, given no use of pulleys or wheels etc. How they managed to move the massive stones of granite is mind boggling. These temples where built over hundreds of years, with each successive King adding to its splendour.

Joe among the columns
see all photos »

It was then back on the bus and a trip to the west bank to the Valley of the Kings             . We are prohibited from taking cameras here and our bags are searched as we enter. After a short ride on a mini-train, Assem gives us a narrative about the tombs dug into these high mountains. Due to looting of the Pyramids, the Kings of Egypt started to use this valley to hide their tombs to try and stymie the robbers. They think there is something like 60+ tombs embedded in this valley. Nearby, there are three other valleys – Valley of the Queens, Valley of the Noblemen and a valley for the high-priests and priestesses. Our entry ticket enables us to enter three of the 19 tombs open to the public. The remaining tombs are closed to enable future generations to appreciate the site. Merely by entering a tomb, the moisture on visitors’ breaths destroys the surface of the decorated walls. Also the taking of photos, the flash photography, breaks down the coating that protects the coloured images.

Hatshepsut Funeral Temple
see all photos »

One of the tombs we enter is for Ramses V. As we descend down the stairs and ramps deep into the mountain, the walls are full of images and icons, and there are side rooms in which Assem tells us were used as storage for the Kings belongings, which he would use in afterlife. We are barricaded from entering the burial chamber, but we can look in so see the larger room at the end of the corridor where the sarcophagus would have stood. We also enter the tomb of the only Queen buried in the Valley of the Kings. After her husband the King died and being without a son, the high priest asked her to marry her step-son (son of her husband’s concubine) -  so that her step-son could be King - (the women carry the royal blood). He died soon after, and again still childless, she was asked to marry her step-grand-son. She refused, and ended up ascending the throne herself. During her 23 year reign she dug her tomb in the valley and was buried there. Upon her death her step-grand-son took over as King, and immediately desecrated her tomb, throwing out her remains and belongings, in retribution for her not allowing him to be king earlier. He then extended her tomb to use as his own. You can see the point where his extension takes over, as her walls were beautifully coloured, and his section has no colourings. We are able to walk around his burial chamber, with the granite crypt left with its carved top-stone.

Hatshepsut long lasting colourings
see all photos »

As we leave the Valley of the Kings, the temperature has soared and it is at least 30 degrees. The reflection of the heat off the limestone and sandstone cliffs makes it so hot we wonder what it would be like visiting in their summer.

Our group then buses around to the Funeral Temple of Queen Hatsheput. This three level temple carved into the side of the limestone mountain was used only for her funeral. The carvings celebrate the achievements during her reign. Unfortunately all the images of her on the walls have been defaced on the order of her successor (as noted above), and the temple was destroyed. Archaeologists have been working on the restoration of this temple for 75 years, with it being completed about 18months ago. Here we are able to take our cameras and photograph what remains of the carvings, statues and the temple itself.

Hatshepsut Temple Statues
see all photos »

Our last stop for the morning is for a photo opportunity at the Colossis of Memnon, where two huge statues appear to be standing in the middle of nowhere. In reality, they used to flank the opening of a huge temple that collapsed during an earthquake in 27BC.

After a very full morning of temples, tombs and statues we head back to the boat for lunch. At 1pm, the boat sets sail for the overnight trip to Edfu.  After lunch I decided to put my head down for a kip (why not!) and when I wake, Joe says he has a very bad headache and has dosed himself up with pain killers. This, on top of his head-cold is disheartening. I leave him to sleep and go upstairs to the sun deck, where I can appreciate our passage down the Nile while typing up my blog.

The Colossus of Memnon
see all photos »

For the locals, the excitement of the day starts at 6pm, when the final of the African cup is being played – Egypt against Ghana. Because we are at sail and moving, satellite coverage is not available for the match. Assem tells us that if we have to queue behind other boats to go through either of the two approaching lochs, we might moor for two hours so they can watch coverage. An enterprising member of staff decides that they can watch the game while still moving – he will manually adjust the satellite dish bit-by-bit. A TV is setup on the sundeck next to the satellite dish, and the staff on the boat crowd around and watch.

Nile River Cruise balcony view
see all photos »

As we approach the first loch, we are warned that small boats with two men on board will come up against the side of the boat and if they see anyone, will start throwing plastic bags with items for sale up on deck. The premise is that if you want any of them to take the item and then thrown money back in the bag. You have to haggle the price, with the cost of items like tablecloths starting at 200EP and ending up at two for 100EP. There was something like 12 boats with men calling out “My Love, My Love”, “Hello, Hello”, “Hello Beautiful” constantly.  Two of the ladies on our tour take on the role of catcher/thrower/haggler while the rest of us hide in the middle of the deck, and go through the items as they catch them. A couple of the ladies bought dresses, scarves and tablecloths (I didn’t see anything I liked). It was certainly an amusing experience.

Egypt wins the African Cup (soccer)
see all photos »

With the game nearly finished and the score 0-0, I sat down with some of the other ladies of our tour group to relax and wait for dinner. One of them mentioned the nice dress and scarf she bought fairly cheaply in the on-board shop. I decide to head down and see if I could see anything I liked. Tomorrow night there is an Egyptian dinner planned and we were being encouraged to dress up if we wanted to. I found a nice pink dress to wear to the dinner, and also spotted a nice pair of bling-bling sandals. I put these on immediately and it was such a relief to get out of the walking shoes I have been wearing during the entire trip. As I sit back down with the ladies and show off my sandals, a joyous eruption occurs up on deck. One can only guess that Egypt has scored a goal. Not five minutes later, as we pass by a local town, cars are appearing in the streets with their horns blaring, and there is joyous screaming in the street. The staff on the boat are also dancing for joy as their beloved Egypt wins the African cup and they have now qualified for the World Cup. We then hear bongo drums being hit and Tamborine type instruments being played and following a line of dancing staff through the ship. They move down the corridor and down the stairs to the foyer where their joyous celebration entertains the guests on the ship. We are encouraged to clap along while they call out “Egypt, Egypt, Egypt”.

Eventually the celebration is stopped by the head-chef who calls his staff back downstairs to the dining room to ready our dinner. Here they serve us a set four course menu of smoked salmon, cream of mushroom soup, grilled chicken with vegetables, and a cold sponge cake for dessert. You can feel the excitement in the air and it makes for a most enjoyable dinner. Joe headache has not improved much the pills have made him drowsy, so he decides to head back to the room for an early night to try and get rid of the headache. I also start to feel a pounding in my head and have to take something that puts me right off to sleep.